Doldenhorn (11,952 ft), berner oberland, Switzerland, july 28-29, 2001

Swiss alpine club event

 

Route: Northwest Face

Vertical gain: 8070 ft. from trailhead (5670 ft. from Doldenhorn Hut)

Difficulty: PD-, snow and ice with some crevasse difficulties

The Doldenhorn is a peak in central Switzerland that is often overlooked although it features several great routes ranging from straight-forward glacier climbs to challenging ice wall routes. We climbed the normal route, which included a short (2 h) hike to the Doldenhorn Hut, and an early morning, long approach to the mountain (7 h).  Like the trails to many Swiss huts, the trail to the Doldenhorn Hut began steps from a bus stop in the middle of town, in this case Kandersteg (about 2400 ft. of vertical gain from the town). From the hut, an alpine trail led upward through meadows and talus fields to the base of the Spitzerstein (Point 2829 m on the map) a large rock tower. From the Spitzerstein, a blocky rock rib was followed to a snow ramp leading on to the glacier. The glacier was ascended (with some crevasse/bergshrund trouble) to the saddle between the Gross and Klein Doldenhorn and from here a gradually narrowing snow ridge was followed to the summit.